ROCK CLIMBING GUIDES
Just a few of our old ropes
Discoloration/burning of the rope after a few uses
02 Dec. 2015
Rock climbing guides have a lot of climbing gear- the perks of the job! But having loads of climbing equipment requires a special place to store it. This is the story of our gear closet, and the gear that comes and goes through it.
Welcome to the Gear Closet Chronicles!
The tags and specs that came with the ropes
We do most of our guiding in Joshua Tree, which has short approaches, abrasive rock and rounded top outs. Because of this, we decided to get some new ropes that were thicker, heavier, and overall more durable. No skinny ropes here! Another bonus of thicker, heavier ropes is that they are often cheaper than their skinnier cousins. Sounded like a good plan to us!
I have always been a big fan of Mammut ropes. Every time I have gone with a different brand, I have ended up regretting it. However, one other rope company that I had never tried, and often wondered about, was Beal. I happened to find a good deal on the Beal Edlinger II, so I ordered 2. It seemed like the perfect time to try a Beal rope.
Pictured above is the Beal Edlinger II in blue. We also ordered the exact same rope in the color anis (yellowish). You can see a picture of the anis color below.
Rock Climbing Gear Reviews
I took the anis rope out for day of guiding to break it in. Upon first use, I noticed that the rope has a stiff, wiry hand. It was a little difficult to tie to a harness, and I had to be very careful that my client cinched down the knot very well before climbing. We climbed 11 pitches that day on the rope, and at the end of the day, I noticed that the rope got a bit discolored! Nothing dangerous, but on its first day of use, I was disappointed to see the discoloration. See the picture left. After a few more uses, I noticed that the dark parts turned blacker, and that the affected areas lengthened. I think that this may be due to the fact that the ropes were not dry treated. However, it is a big bummer to have this happen to your rope on the first day of use!
The ropes are still quite new, so this review will be ongoing. We will report back with any new findings/opinions/problems as they arise. Check back for updates!
Editor's note: Annie says that she personally likes the stiffness of the rope because it is easier to belay with. The stiffness attribute seems to be a personal preference thing. However, Annie was also disappointed in the discoloration problem.
At Stone Adventures, we have a lot of old ropes on hand. But who wants to climb on old ropes? So this year, we ordered 2 new ropes.
The Gear Closet Chronicles
OK! Now for the review! The buying process of the Edlinger II is a good one, since it is a relatively cheap rope. For this reason, many climbers, and many newer climbers, may consider buying this rope. It was shipped to Stone Adventures headquarters and the unboxing began. As with most rope companies, Beal chose to round-coil the ropes! I hate unpacking a new rope that is round-coiled! It is a tricky process to not introduce a million kinks and twists in your brand new rope. Alas, I did quite well on the anis rope, but with the blue rope I didn't succeed- kinks galore! After re-flaking the rope about 10 times and swinging it around rodeo-style, I got most of the kinks out. Beal, please start butterfly-coiling your new ropes! Customer service...
Update 1-4-2016: After doing some rappelling with clients, I realized that there is no middle mark on this rope!!! I suppose you could fault me for not checking the details before purchasing the ropes, but I assumed that in this day and age, middle marks were standard fare, not options! This is the first rope I have ever owned that did not come with a middle mark. Very inconvenient for rappelling and also for realizing once you have gone too far up to be lowered down (could be a safety issue- make sure to tie stopper knots in the ends of the rope and create a closed system).
OLD VS. NEW
Beal Edlinger II Rock Climbing Rope
Brand new Beal Edlinger II 10.2mm 60M
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